Pattern: The Heather Dress by Sew Over It Alterations: Piping used along neckline, front and back seams.
Today I want to talk to you about one of my favourite makes this year the Heather Dress that I piped with a lovely, glittery, gold piping I picked up from Minerva Crafts. I first saw the black and gold ponte roma on a Fabric Godmother IG post and while I had no idea what I was going to do with it, it soon became clear when I got the piping. This was not a planned project but I’m so glad the idea came to me because the dress is awesome!
I cut a straight size 10 and although I normally need to adjust 1 to 2 sizes up in the hip. I figured that since it was a nice stretchy fabric I could skip that part. I was right and I had no problems with the sizing though I thought it was perhaps a little snug around the armhole. I don’t think that going up a size wouldn’t have made a difference for me there. I’ve since made another 2 and after making it in an 8 for my cousin (silver piped one below) I think that would have been a better fit for more of a glam evening look as it was more fitted around my waist, leaving the 10 for a more ‘comfortable’ look.
Now – the piping! I bought a pack of 3m – again with no real project in mind but just knowing I would use it and turns out 3m is the EXACT amount of piping it takes to pipe the princess seams and pipe the entire neckline but you may want to order a little over this to make sure you have enough. *NOTE. this amount will pipe a size 8 and 10, I can’t confirm for next sizes up*
I attached the piping to pieces A and D (the front of dress and back side panel) before sewing it together. I did not cut piping to size and instead sewed the piping on leaving the remaining length as a tail which I then obviously cut off and used to start my next panel. I did it this way because I was sewing curves and didn’t want to undershoot with the length; especially in case sewing this woven piping onto stretchy ponte roma would warp a little. I made sure I only attached up to 1cm piping within the seam allowance of front and back pieces – missing that little 0.5cm within the seam is saving you at least 4cm of piping for your neckband which you may need if you’ve accidentally warped your piping! It is also worth stitching over your piping in the seam allowance if you’ve got piping prone to fraying.
Now this was the first time I used the Heather pattern and I love the shape and fit of this dress. The princess seam forming front pockets are ideal for me as it gives me somewhere to put my hands whilst awkwardly standing stationary. I can honestly say that I am a huge fan of this pattern. I can’t believe I’ve not seen another piped Heather on IG but I’m sure they must be out there. If you’re thinking about making it but not wanting to commit to the 2 colours, try piping it for a fun variation.
While I used up all of my piping I only used about 1.3m of ponte roma from the 2m I bought. I’m carefully considering what I can try and pull together from the leftovers…
***I’d also like to say a huge thank you to my lovely IG friends that helped advise me against using the rose gold velvet I was considering doing as contrast panels. The final version with gold piping is infinitely better!***