Pattern: Ultimate Trousers by Sew Over It Alterations: Made in Double Jersey, High Waisted, Waistband, Faux Fly
This is my third attempt of this pattern and the pair I am most happy with. My first attempt was a muslin toile of just the thigh, crotch and waist area for fitting. I hadn’t really done any research on how to get a good fit with trousers so the toile was a bust and I put the pattern away for a whole year before I thought I had the guts to try them again – hot off the heels of my amazing Lazo Trouser success.
My second attempt of the UTs was a bit of a cop out, I made them in some checked ponte roma so I didn’t need to worry too much about the fit; I had increased the pattern for my calfs, thighs and hips so there’s not great pull on the fabric, and they slide on and off with ease. I did however feel they sat quite low on my hips and the hem was a tad short so I knew on my next pair I’d be making changes here.
My third and probably not final pair is the beautiful digital roses double jersey fabric that I made my Berlin Skirt in. I feel like Sandy in Grease when I wear these, I feel like the drawing on the pattern packaging but mostly like Sandy, if Sandy was rocking the floral look.
To start with I kept all my pattern width adjustments same and added approx 7.5cm to the height of waist with a sharp narrowing curve and I added 4cm to the bottom hem. In hindsight I could take about 2.5/3cm off the waist height as I’ve sandwiched that extra length into the waistband. This isn’t so bad as it almost acts as a sewn in interfacing to keep the band in shape – oh I’ve added a waistband! Since I’d heightened the waist I didn’t want them to look just like a really high waisted pair of leggings so I added bit of fun styling to the pattern. I have taken the waist facing and turned it into a waistband, popped on some buttons and added a faux fly detail.
To make the waistband I cut 2 back and front waist facing pieces, however instead of cutting the front facing pieces on the fold I’ve added a seam allowance to the centre so these pieces are sewn together and attached in line with the crotch seams front centre, adding to the the illusion of the fly closure. I’ve then attached waistband encasing the excess fabric I’d overshot when I made my pattern alteration. To finish the feature I used the triple stitch function on my machine to make a nice visible faux fly detail on the crotch and popped on 2 cute buttons in a complimenting colour. Obviously you could just use 1 button but I only had small ones to hand so 2 looked better.
I totally love the finished result on these trousers and have already worn them on 2 nights out. I have to say, I would never in a million years even have tried them on if I saw them in a shop but one of my favourite things about being my own seamstress is that it really pushes me out of my clothing comfort zone – my comfort zone is jeans and a jumper.
I would definitely make these high waisted again, I would maybe even do them in a stretch suiting but I don’t know if I’ll ever have the guts to make them in the proper woven they were designed for. When I made that first toile in muslin many moons ago it was so off in the fit that it really put me off them and trousers in general, I’m a 26/27” waist, slim lower back, quickly growing to a 38/40” hip so I find it really difficult to grade trousers properly. If the fabric has no stretch I find the final outcome really demoralising which is why I prefer to make trousers in fabrics with a good bit of stretch. To be noted – this is not a fault in the pattern, this is a fault in my own technical knowledge. While I’ve definitely improved on that score, I just don’t trust I won’t bend over or sit down and bust out of my trousers if I make them in woven. Stretch fabrics for me please.